November 20 2008 

Archive for the 'Travel' Category

Eco-Tourism in Algonquin Park

Sunday, August 6th, 2006

Eco-LodgeWe just got back from a three-day stay at the Algonquin Eco-Lodge. It was an interesting and pleasant way to experience the southern region of one of Canada’s most famous parks. The folks who run the Lodge are good people and we also got to meet some interesting guests: like the bowling alley “facility manager”, a U.S. parks and wildlife employee and some Italian tourists who only wanted to see “nature” in Canada. During those three days without electricity we were able to disconnect from the insane tangle of world events that has tied the airwaves — and our stomachs — in knots.

This dearth of news afforded us all a kind of grace and clarity, as well as the gift of time. Cynical curmudgeon that I am, I started thinking about what we were doing out there and whether the whole concept of eco-tourism is really an oxymoron.

Passive Solar FrogIt’s true that for three days we were disconnected from the grid and used considerably less water than the small lake that most North Americans use every day. Cooking, refrigeration and lighting were accomplished with miserly (i thot) amounts of propane. On the other hand, we had to drive several hundred kilometres just to get to the place. Guests are expected to hike 3km from the parking area to the lodge, but food, supplies and visitor’s luggage are ferried in by ATV. There is a fast flowing creek right next to the lodge and we heard rumours that a microhydro system was in the works, but I’m not sure a small stream could generate enough hydroelectric power for cooking and heating. If not, they would have to continue using wood and propane. But every little bit helps, right? Still, the total eco-experience would be enhanced if they added passive solar water heating and some token amount of photovoltaic and wind power generation — just to say they did. On the other hand, the costs for such systems are not trivial and payback is uncertain.

So, while we were mostly dependant on propane, we found two apparently “natural” examples of alternative energy use. The frog in the photo on this page took advantage of beer cooling in a small brook to sun himself in the parabola of an upside down can. Clever little guy! We also found a plant that uses “alternative” energy: Indian Pipe is a waxy, white plant that gets its nutrients from a fungus, which in turn, gets nutrients from the roots of green plants. The irony of these examples is that both the frog and the Indian Pipe rely on the resources, work and or technology of other organisms. You could say they are opportunistic sponges. You could say they are a bit us: opportunistic and lazy. We become risk-takers only when circumstances offer no easier path.

While the Algonquin Eco-Lodge is a work-in-progress, it is interesting because it does not take the easiest path as far as energy use is concerned. The place could be greener, but compared to the vast amount of energy and resources consumed on a cruise or at any luxury resort, the Algonquin Eco-Lodge looks like an environmentalist’s dream destination.

Lake view

On our final night there was a severe thunderstorm in the area. During the storm we sat in the common area drinking coffee and laughing nervously while lightning flashed and the pine floor rumbled and shook after every thunder clap. We left the next morning and drove though a ravaged swath of the Kawartha lake area to find numerous downed trees and damaged roofs. More than 100,000 people lost power during that storm, but life at the Eco-Lodge continued as per usual.

Sometimes the harder path really is easier.

Freedom isn’t Free: The PenOpticons go to Washington

Sunday, May 7th, 2006
Whtehouse Collage ThumbI have visited Ottawa many times, toured Parliament, sat in the Governor General’s “backyard”, been transfixed by the National Gallery of Canada and cycled miles of bike paths, and gardens. It’s an amazing place, but compared to Washington, D.C. my capital is little more than a beaver lodge nestled at the edge of the Ottawa River. A very expensive beaver lodge, mind you. But it’s all relative. “Your tax dollars at work” has a very different meaning, depending on which side of the border you happen to be from.
We arrived in Washington in the midst of a nasty storm, a torrential rain that was matched by the stormy events of the day: the Duke lacrosse team rape allegations, Moussaoui’s trial in Alexandria and sky-rocketing gas prices (which are now *gasp* almost as high as Canadian prices). We were in the U.S. capital when we learned that four Canadians had been killed by a roadside bomb in Afghanistan and that the Harper government had decided not to fly the Canadian flag at half-mast to honor the fallen — or allow media to bear witness to the return of their bodies. All of these things swirled in our road-weary brains while we wandered around the National Mall.

In case you Americans don’t know it yet, your president now has a “Mini Me” in the form of Canada’s Prime Minister: a smug, self-righteous, introverted, media-shy conservative. Harper is doing everything he can to follow in W’s footsteps. His newly announced budget will build more jails (in a country with falling crime rates), while granting regressive tax relief to the wealthiest Canadians and businesses. He has manipulated Parliament to avoid contact with media. And, as already mentioned, has forbidden media coverage of the repatriation of soldiers lost in battle (sound familiar?). Our Prime Minister does not look much like W, but he sure sounds like him. Given that Bush’s popularity is plummeting, it will be interesting so see if Harper’s mimicry results in a similar fate. We can hope.

But back in Washington… we are just two more foreign visitors walking around the White House, striding to the Washington Monument and then proceeding alongside the Reflecting Pool toward the Lincoln Memorial. It’s all beautiful and huge and well… monumental. And when the rain finally ends, it’s a gorgeous day — there are white-throated sparrows and warblers singing in the trees around the White House. We are foreigners and yet it is all so familiar — images embedded and deep memories inserted in the mind by a lifetime of TV and film. And books — like Kim Stanley Robinson’s Forty Signs of Rain. Familiar but still strange. The small anti-nuclear protest, the Scientology tent and the lone individual screaming incoherently at the White House (until he was quietly cornered by security personnel) felt like business as usual. When Denise looked through her binoculars back at the White House, she said the rooftop security sniper seemed to be looking right back at her.

And that’s the point, I suppose. Supposedly we are foreigners, and yet when you consider the “fundamentals”, we’re not so different. Consider these two great souls that we lost last week:

John Kenneth Galbraith: A Canadian-born economist who lived and worked most of his life in the U.S. had considerable influence in shaping the discourse of American liberal politics after World War II. Even if you don’t like his politics, ya gotta like his wit: The modern conservative is engaged in one of man’s oldest exercises in moral philosophy; that is, the search for a superior moral justification for selfishness.

Jane Jacobs: An American-born urban thinker and activist who lived and worked much of her life in Canada. Jacob’s book The Death and Life of Great American Cities got people thinking about sprawl, urban renewal and the disastrous effects of slicing up cities with expressways. She is credited with stopping both New York’s Lower Manhattan Expressway and helping to prevent Toronto’s Spadina Expressway from being built. Her dream of a creative, organic city was a powerful vision, though sadly, one that has seldom been realized. She tells us: There is a quality even meaner than outright ugliness or disorder, and this meaner quality is the dishonest mask of pretended order, achieved by ignoring or suppressing the real order that is struggling to exist and to be served. Unfortunately, we are surrounded by “pretended order” — we are corralled and controlled by 6-lane arterial roads, big box stores and factory outlets.

But there it is. Two great minds lost. Jacobs, an American who lived and loved in Canada and Galbraith, a Canadian who loved and lived in America, both dreaming of a different kind of justice and an order that flowed upward from individual choice and responsibility — not downward from greed and intangible “market forces”. Eyes can meet unexpectedly in binoculars, traversing hundreds of yards at the speed of light and ideas can travel almost as fast between our countries.

But we were not thinking of any of this in Washington when we were still climbing the steps of the Lincoln Memorial and meditating on that President’s words. We spent another hour or so wandering around the Korean and Vietnam memorials. These are truly moving places, where families still quietly scan for the names of lost loved ones. A few veterans stand by and politely help out when asked. It’s a place of wistful smiles and quiet tears, and for outsiders like us, who never had to come to terms with any of it, the raw emotion of the place still echoes over the names engraved on the Wall.

These are places of healing for bereaved families and surviving veterans and care has been taken to build them well. But it took a long time for them to be built — a long time to jog the official public memory. The Vietnam memorial opened in Washington in 1982, a mere 7 years after that war ended in 1975. It took considerably longer for Washington to memorialize World War II in 2004 — almost 60 years after D-Day. Perhaps nothing can or should be made of these facts. Or perhaps the need to honor the dead of a war clouded by political spin and national guilt is greater than the need to honor the fallen of a “just” war. If that is the case, then let us hope they have already mapped out a place for the Iraq War Memorial. It needs to be built now.

Anti-War Riff - PenOpticon

Nine Days in America

Sunday, April 30th, 2006

Denise and I just returned from a nine day work/vacation road trip through the north eastern states — mostly D.C., Virginia and North Carolina. Apart from doing our part to help deplete the world’s supply of oil (we burned up 3,000 KM worth), our plan was to make a kind of pilgrimage to Washington, explore the Great Dismal Swamp and visit some of the wildlife refuge areas in the N.C. Outer Banks.

Despite its name, the Great Dismal Swamp is a spectacular place to visit, both for its strange and sad history and its rebirth as a "managed" natural habitat. The Swamp’s place in American capital-H-History was cemented in 1763 when George Washington formed a company to purchase the area for logging. The founding father surveyed the Dismal Swamp and employed his own slaves to dig a series of 4 1/2-mile ditches. These waterways were used to drain the wetland and provide canal transport for the logging operation. Washington evenutally sold his share, but logging continued into the 1970’s until the Union Camp Company donated the land to the Nature Conservancy.

The old-growth forest is long gone, but there is still a lot of life in the old Swamp. During our two days in the area we tallied over 50 bird species, including numerous Prothonotary and Hooded warblers. We came across several deer and a large bobcat that was slouching across the trail a few hundred yards in front of us. Even in the afternoon heat, the air was ringing with the birdsong of spring migrants and nesting species.

While walking along the Washington Ditch, I kept thinking about our time in D.C. from the previous day. We spent hours trapsing around the National Mall, gawking at monuments and statues. Take the 555-foot Washington Monument, for instance. For a man who started out chopping down cherry trees, and who then moved on to begin the wholesale deforestation of a thriving wetland, it seems entirely fitting that his monument rises like an upraised middle finger from a treeless field of well-worn sod. Does that sound a little bitter? I shouldn’t be too hard on that George. After all, for him the American Dream was a vivid waking dream. He couldn’t turn away from his destiny and any of us might have done exactly the same thing. I’m sure George wasn’t flipping the bird, but I think someone was. Or perhaps Robert Mills, the Monument’s designer, has unwittingly built the world’s tallest Viagra ad. A terrible way to end this, but there it is. I have more respectful things to say about Washington and the National Mall in the days to come.